Thong Smith Phuket Old Town

The Phuket branch of Thong Smith, the Bangkok restaurant that dressed up boat noodles, on Yaowarat Road next to its sister restaurant Fran's. The broth is the traditional dark one, simmered with star anise and cinnamon, but the meats are a step up — Australian Wagyu, Kurobuta pork, braised beef and tendon — and the bowls are far bigger than the few mouthfuls once served from canal boats. Its name loosely means "goldsmith".

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