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A dessert bar on Phang Nga Road whose name, Chinese for "sweet sweet", glows in red neon over the door. The thing to order is o-aew, the Hokkien dessert Phuket has made for more than a hundred years: it looks like shaved ice with red syrup, but the dessert is the clear jelly beneath, made from the seeds of a climbing fig. Here it comes in old Chinese porcelain, with toppings picked from a chilled counter. Open every day from noon to 10 pm.

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